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How to clean your pet's ears:
A fine set of ears.If your pet is having trouble with his ears--shaking his head, scratching excessively, painful--it's very important to see the veterinarian and have the ears evaluated before attempting home therapy. Often he/she will recommend periodic cleaning, either before treatment with medication or as maintenance care to prevent infection (especially after swimming!).
A little anatomy, first:
Pets' ear canals are shaped roughly like an "L", with a vertical canal heading down from the ear opening, turning to a horizontal canal leading into the head to the eardrum. (see illus.)Diagram of ear canal. Moisture and debris can be trapped in the horizontal canal, leading to infection and discomfort. To clean the ears, fill canal with cleaning solution (e.g. Epiotic®) and thoroughly massage the base of the ear to break up waxy debris. Use a cotton ball to remove excess cleanser. Do not use Q-tips inside the ear canal; they will just pack the debris down into the horizontal canal. Allow pet to shake out excess cleanser before medicating.
Applying medications: Most ear medications come with a long-tipped applicator to deliver the drop or ointment deep into canal. Be sure to point applicator straight down into vertical canal (there is no danger of hitting the eardrum if the applicator points down), apply medication and massage base of ear to coat entire canal.


How to trim your pet's nails:
It's best to start handling your pet's feet when he or she is very young. Keep sessions short at first, trimming one or two nails at a time so that your puppy or kitten gets used to it without becoming too impatient.

For cats and kittens: You can trim kitty nails with a human nail trimmer, but feline nail scissors are preferred. Extend the nail by pressing on the pad of the toe and trim just in front of the pink quick area.Diagram of cat nail If you trim into the quick it will bleed. A styptic pencil or Quik Stop® (found in most pet stores) can be used to stop the bleeding. Don’t forget the dewclaws on the side of the paw; they don’t touch the ground and may need more frequent trimming.

For dogs and puppies: Use cat nail scissors for small dogs and larger, dog nail clippers for bigger dogs. If the nails are light colored, look closely for the pink quick inside. Cut the tip of the nail, taking care not to cut the quick. Darker nails are more challenging; if you can't see the quick, just clip small bits at a time. As you approach the quick, the dry, flaky center of the nail will begin to appear darker and shiny.


How to care for a bandage:
Bandages come in a variety of types for many different uses. Light bandages may be used to cover wounds or incisions; special dressings called "wet-to-dry bandages" are used to clean infected wounds; larger, thicker bandages and/or splints are used for support after orthopedic (bone or joint) injury or surgery; bandages and slings may be used to immobilize a limb after injury.

If your pet is released from the hospital with a bandage he will require bandage care and monitoring.

  • Bandages must be kept clean and dry (except for wet-to-dry bandages). A wet or dirty bandage can cause more damage than good. Use a baggie as a covering if the pet needs to go out when it's wet.
  • Check the skin above and below the bandage at least twice daily for chafing or swelling. If the bandage is on a limb with toes exposed, check the toes to be sure they're warm and not swollen.
  • Limit the pet's activity and follow your veterinarian's schedule for bandage changes closely. Usually bandages must be changed weekly, or sooner if soiled.
  • If you notice a problem with the bandage, call your veterinarian right away. Usually it is best to remove a soiled or faulty bandage as soon as possible.

Wet-to-dry bandages are used to remove infected tissue from an open wound. The wound is covered with a wet dressing, then several layers of absorbent material. As the moisture is absorbed from the dressing, dead and infected tissue adheres to the drying dressing and is removed when the bandage is changed. Wet-to-dries are usually changed once or twice daily. (If not dry when removed, the wet dressing should be wrung out more completely for the next bandage.) This continues until all infected tissue is gone; the wound is then either closed surgically, or it may be bandaged with a regular light wrap or left open to heal.

Post-Surgical Care:

  • Home care after surgery includes keeping the pet very calm and quiet for at least two weeks while the incision heals. Orthopedic (bone and joint) procedures usually require very strict rest for at least 4-6 weeks, followed by a very gradual increase in activity; check with your veterinarian for specific instructions.
  • Pets should not be bathed until incision is healed.
  • Generally pets should be fed small meals for 48 hours after surgery. Check with your veterinarian for special diet instructions for your pet's particular procedure.
  • Monitor the incision for swelling or discharge. If the edges look pink or moist it may indicate that the pet is licking the area and needs an Elizabethan collar. Alert your veterinarian to any abnormalities right away.

Paxton with "E collar"


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This site is intended for informational purposes only; it is in no way intended to replace actual veterinary diagnoses and care. If your pet exhibits any signs of illness, please contact your veterinarian.

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